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Surfing Lesson 3 - Discover How To Get Through The Waves

by Rodney Lister

Now your ready to make your way out through the surf, try to choose the calmest section of water. A lot of surfers use a rip to help them get out, it is calmer and the current helps pull them out.

If your just beginning you might want to stay in the shore breaks, or find a nice headland, the waves are easier on a headland, because you can stay wide of them when paddling out.

The next step is getting through those waves that you can’t get the board over without getting pushed back. You can use one of two options, the first is rolling you and your board over. If you have a Malibu or extra large board, then this will be the only real viable option because it will be to hard to push it under the water. So as you approach within two feet of the wave, simply grab the rails of the surfboard and roll it over.

As you roll the board over, you will go under water while holding the rails. The wave will pass above you, and over the underside of the surfboard. You should now continue to roll the board back over, as you surface, the wave should now be continuing behind you, and you can start paddling again.

The next thing to learn is duck diving, this might not be possible till you get a smaller board, but lets cover it anyway. For the best results, you should build up plenty of speed, to let the momentum push you through. As you come within a couple of feet of the wave, grab the rails half way between the center of the surfboard and the nose.

Then rise up and push all your weight down on your hands, pushing the nose under, then point your head down, and let your body follow. Once your body is just under the surface, use your knee on your dominant leg to push down on the tail of your board, your leg should bend pushing the tail under water.

Release the weight from your hands, allowing the nose back up, the buoyancy of the board should push you back out of the water nose first. You should quickly pass under the wave and surface behind it, regain your balance and continue to paddle.

Don’t get frustrated with the surf, getting out is the hardest part for everyone. Begin in small swells, and just keep practicing, you will get better, fitter, and stronger with time.

Stay tuned, the next article in the series is the fun part, how to catch a wave.

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